SPOTLIGHT PROFILE: The Dublin Doughnut Co

I have great love and passion for the array of artisan producers and products available throughout Ireland at the moment; as indeed do the people behind these goods. I've always been interested to hear about how they got into what they're doing, why the love it and why we should too.

Along with some whimsical food questions, I'm attempting to peer behind the veil a little in these new instalments, I hope you enjoy them. This week, the woman behind the Dublin Doughnut Co, Hilary Quinn, joined The Irish Plate for a chat.

How did you start baking?

I guess you could say I starting baking with my Mum when I was quite young, maybe 3 years old. She was a Home Economics teacher, so there was always some brown bread baking in the oven, or griddle scones baking on top of the Aga we had in the kitchen. She always bought fresh food and ingredients and always made every cake that was needed - for Christmas, birthdays, weddings you name it, she made it. As kids we grew up with really good food and learned how to cook from a young age. 

Do you remember the first thing you ever baked, or what became your signature dish?

One memory that stands out is rolling out a piece of leftover bread dough over and over again and I insisted on baking it afterwards, it was like a brick when it was done! My twin (Laura) and I used to look forward to days off from school where we were allowed to bake something from one of the recipes books on the shelf in the kitchen. One time we made muffins and forgot to put the baking powder in, you can only imagine how they turned out! But we kept trying, and practice does make perfect after all! 

I don't really have a signature dish as I like to constantly try new recipes and dishes. Although, I'm a big fan of pasta so I make a mean ragù with pappardelle.

What influences your baking?

Definitely the way I was brought up. Thinking back on it, I really had an amazing childhood. I grew up in a small town called Foxford in County Mayo, and we were fortunate enough to have a handful of apples tress out the back of the house. That's why I love Autumn, it reminds me of running out to pick an apple straight from the tree. The varieties we have aren't widely available and they have the most wonderful flavour. You could say I was foraging since I was knee high to a grasshopper, by taking off down the lane beside the house to pick blackberries to put into an apple and blackberry tart (made by Mum start to finish of course!). I also follow some really talented people on Instagram and am constantly in awe of what they make.

Take us through a regular day for you 

My day starts with a 3am wake up call. Depending on the weather, I'll cycle to my kitchen which is now based out of the Bernard Shaw in Portobello. I start at 4am on the dot each day, if I don't start at that time, my whole day gets completely out of sync. 

I roll out the doughnuts from the dough that I started the day before. It's an overnight fermented dough which contributes to the flavour and texture of the finished doughnut. After that I'll assemble the fillings for that day. I make everything from scratch so you can be guaranteed it's only the best that you're getting. The fryers are ready to go by 7am and before you know it, the smell of delicious frying dough fills the air. 

The doughnuts are cooked, sugared, cooled and filled, ready to be picked up by my delivery guy to drop across the city. Then there's a clean down and a baker's breakfast, that's an aeropress and a warm sugar doughnut. I have to limit myself to one doughnut a day, and for me it has to be just a sugar doughnut. There's something so special about the taste of it, still warm and an honest flavour with a slight sourdough taste (that's from the overnight fermentation). The morning finishes with getting ready for the next day by mixing the dough. In the afternoon I might have a meeting or two, or catch up on emails. Dinner is usually quite early and always something simple then it's off to bed by 7pm. I'm a terror if I don't get my 8 hours sleep!

Where do you get inspiration for your recipes?

My main inspiration for my recipes comes from the places I've worked. I owe a lot to the chefs who took a chance on me as a young, naive Culinary Arts students. Each chef I had taught me so well, and invested so much time in me. They each had a different approach to food and cooking, which I think when you combine them all, makes something really unique and amazing. 

I loved working in Ballymaloe House, it was such an honour to work there and I have some amazing memories. Whilst there, I truly learned the meaning of doing justice to food. Like picking rhubarb when it's ready, not wasting anything and just appreciating where food comes from. I was there at a time when desserts in other restaurants consisted of strawberries 10 different ways on a plate, but nothing could beat a strawberry just picked and still warm from the sun. 

Then I moved to London for a stint in St. John Bread & Wine, which was the start of my love affair with doughnuts. London is such a cool place, and it doesn't try to be cool, it just is. I pop over to London when I can, to see what's happening there. Recently I picked up a couple ideas there that I would love to start right here in Dublin. Then I was in San Francisco for a summer where they are so into their food. The farmers markets and producers there are second to none. I'm still dreaming about the afternoons I spent in Tartine...

If you were a baked good, what one would you be?

I'd have to be a lemon tart, after all who doesn't love a good tart! Unassuming but sharp with just a little edge.

What advice would you give to a) newbie bakers and b) established bakers?

For newbie bakers, the one piece of advice is to read the recipe from start to finish, and read it again. And just to be sure, read it once more! Baking is all about specifics (weights, measurements, times, sizes etc.). Make sure you have everything you need for the recipe before you begin, weigh it out and have it ready to go once it's called for. And don't skip the first step of the recipe, which is always to line your tin and turn on your oven! I learned that the hard way. Because we had an Aga at home we never had to turn the oven on or off, it was always ready to go. 

For more established bakers, don't be afraid to try something new, and definitely don't be put off if something doesn't turn out correctly. There's a chance to learn from everything you do.

For your last meal, what would you have?

The meal would have to start with a Negroni, I was introduced to the drink a couple years ago and have been obsessed ever since. Then we would have a table with lots of little bits and pieces laid out, I'm a big fan of convivial eating and people getting stuck in rather than being regimented. The table would be Italian influenced, lots of fresh produce that hasn't been messed around with too much. There would definitely have to be some good bread there too, some cheese and for dessert something from the dessert case in Tartine.

What is your favourite Irish dish?

My favourite Irish dish has to be Mum's griddle scones with crispy smoked bacon, and lots of butter! 

You can grab Hilary's doughnuts at The Bernard Shaw, 147 Deli and other places around Dublin. Check out her Twitter accounts for more info: @dubdoughnutco / @HillyQuinn

or catch her on Instagram @dublindoughnutco/